Revisiting Ol' Favorites

How quickly doth a fairly ambitious dish that you once made turn into a "staple"!

Good cooks never talk about this but as their technique deepens, they get very good at formerly complex tasks. "Fancy" dishes turn routine that they can do at a moment's notice with minimal kerfuffle.

It's called learning and it's useful to remember that all those slave years in the galley kitchen were not wasted. Most importantly, all that separates you from you from the great chefs is plain ol'-fashioned hard work (and an understanding of technique.)

This is a great dish. What makes it great is the both the elegance of its concept, and the fact that it can be endlessly reshuffled to align with the seasons and the ingredients at hand.

The older recipe required — arugula, corn, carrots, sage.

This version — radicchio, peas, carrots, rosemary.

You should be able to see the infamous shuffle yourself.

Speaking of shuffling, what would your inner Italian Grandma think of these "crab balls"? Bet she's thinking about how delicious they would be in her mouth!

Risotto with Crab Balls

Spaghetti with Crab Meat and Peas

Sometimes, there is a level of awesomeness that pictures simply don't do justice to. You need full-on Smell-O-Vision™ to appreciate this one.

That this is both easily made on a weeknight, and that it is definitely better than sliced bread means that the Italians just do some things better!

Garlic! Chillies! Olive oil! Exclamation Marks!!

Madre di Dio!!!



Ingredients

linguini (or spaghetti.)
1 cup crabmeat
8 cloves garlic (chopped roughly)
1/2 cup peas
1/2 cup parsley (chopped fine)
4 dried read chillies (crumbled fine)
1 cup white wine (optional, substitute by water)

olive oil
sea salt
black pepper

Recipe

Prepare the pasta in heavy-salted water.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a pan, fry the garlic and crumbled red-chillies languidly, add the crabmeat, peas, salt and black pepper and fry for 2-3 minutes. Add the white wine. Let it cook for a bit.

Toss with the spaghetti. Top with parsley and more black pepper right before serving.

Corn Risotto with Crab Balls

This will appear to be a difficult recipe. However, if the CC can make it on a weekday, so can you.

It's called prep and advance planning. Also, if you read the recipe carefully, you will see that there are fairly obvious "synergies" between the three sections. If you use your time wisely, and this is a skill, you will see that this is a fairly simple recipe.

The herbs are fairly interchangeable. You will get great results with basil, rosemary, sage, or thyme. Tarragon can be a little overpowering so should be used with a spare hand. Combinations also work.

After the recipe below, the CC presents the underlying logic -- why is this dish the way it is? (Hopefully, this section will turn into a regular trend.)

This level of analysis which explains the harmony of flavors, aesthetics, nutrition and palate feel is absolutely necessary if you want to get to the "next level" in cooking.


Ingredients

Corn Broth

6 cobs corn (shucked, keep the cobs)
1 large red onion
sage

Crab Balls

1/2 cup crabmeat
1/2 carrot (grated - read below what to with the remaining half carrot)
1 red serrano (yes! it must be red)
2 eggs
breadcrumbs
sage (chopped very fine)

Corn Risotto

4 leeks (chopped fine, white parts only)
2 cups arborio rice (or carnaroli or vialone nano.)
1/2 carrot (grated)
1 cup parmigiano reggiano
1 cup chopped wild greens with a bitter edge (mizuna, arugula, etc.)
1 cup white wine
sage (chopped very fine)
black pepper

olive oil

Recipe

Prepare the corn broth. This step can be done ahead of time.

Sweat the onions in olive oil. Add the cobs, half of the corn kernels and the sage. Fry languidly for 5-7 minutes. Cover with water, and bring to a boil. Skim the impurities, and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove the cobs, blend the mixture, and pass through a fine sieve. (Yes, this is a lot of work. Deal with it!)

Combine the crabmeat, very finely chopped serrano, grated carrot, two eggs, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper. The mixture should be loose but fashionable into balls. Create small balls out of them. Pan fry them in a skillet with a layer of olive oil, and drain on paper towels.

Now, we prepare a standard risotto. Keep the corn broth on a simmer.

Fry the leeks languidly (4-6 minutes.) Add the rice, and fry till the kernels of the rice are visible. Add the white wine and stir. Add ladles of the broth, and stir. Repeat.

Two-thirds of the way in, add the grated carrot. Towards the end, add the greens and the rest of the corn kernels.

Add the grated parmigianio-reggiano and the sage.

Plate.

Recipe Logic

The basic idea started as a corn risotto.

The CC had some corn soup in his kitchen, and it made sense to turn it into a broth, and make the risotto. However, this would've been too mundane - monochromatic if you will - corn flavor would, of course, be amazing but there is nothing to make the dish either visually interesting or amazing on the second bite. For that, we need contrast. Also, there is not enough protein in the dish.

Hence, the need for a topping. Mushrooms were considered but the season for chanterelles is long past. Seared scallops would've been a complete winner. That would be one direction to go into but it was a bit of a cliché. Plus, the texture would be soft on soft. Not a recipe for a knockout.

So the CC went in the direction of a different cliché -- corn and crab -- a classic in many cuisines -- French, American, Vietnamese. From the seared scallops, the CC went with crab cakes but they are mundane so the CC punched it up with a slight sweetness and color (carrot) and spice (serrano). You get a textural contrast as a free bonus -- the soft, wet risotto punched up by a crisp crab ball.

Now, to make the color act as tie-in to the balls as well as a visual punchline, a slight bit of grated carrot would work in the risotto but it would make the dish too sweet (with the corn, corn broth, etc.) so the CC added a base note of bitter greens which also add a dash of green color.

The herbs tie it all together. By making them identical across the board, the dish has a coherent feel.

Please note that the dish has both the aesthetics and nutritional complexity of the very Japanese washoku.

Crab Masala

This recipe has a relatively large number of ingredients, and is a bit of work, but if the CC can cook it on a weekday night with an injured thumb then so can you. This is truly lip-smackingly good.

Put on some music, and start chopping!

(This would also work with prawns, or mussels.)

Ingredients

crab meat (cleaned)
1 large onion (diced finely)
1 large potato (diced coarsely)
4 small tomatoes (cut into quarter-rounds)
8 cloves garlic (ground into a paste)
1 inch ginger (ground into a paste)
5 Thai green chillies (slitted vertically)
1 tbsp cumin seeds
4 tbsp coriander powder (roasted and ground)
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp turmeric powder
1 tsp Indian red chilli powder
1/2 cup fresh grated coconut (frozen is fine)
15-20 fresh curry leaves
3 tbsp tamarind paste (or a little more to taste)
1/4 cup cilantro leaves (chopped finely)
salt to taste

Recipe

Fry the onions till they are golden. Add the ginger-garlic paste, green chillies, black pepper, cumin, coriander, red chilli powder, turmeric, curry leaves, and salt; fry for a minute or so.

Add the diced potatoes, and fry for 2-3 minutes, followed by the tomatoes. Cover, and let simmer till the potatoes are slightly tender. Add the crab meat, and cook for 8 minutes or so. Add the tamarind paste, and the grated coconut, and cook uncovered for a minute or so.

Toss in the chopped cilantro right before serving.