Tom Kha

No, the CC hasn't lost his marbles. He knows that the soup is uniformly referred to as tom kha gai in the US except that the soup is not a soup and the "gai" (chicken) is basically optional.

It's really a family of stews at the heart of it.

For starters, there is neither the concept of "soup" nor that of "courses" in Thai cooking. A rich dish such as this would be served with rice and it would be a blowout meal (because of its richness.)

The tom roughly suggests a soup or a stew and the kha refers to galangal. Substitutions are pointless since galangal is the main feature.

Secondly, it's really a meta-dish in the sense that the basic stew is prepared first and then other stuff added. You can have tom kha tao-hoo (with tofu) , tom kha hoi (with shellfish), tom kha talay (with mixed seafood), etc.

The dish is all about the aroma, and you have an insanely umami-laden broth with a mildly sweet, savory, sour broth and a solid kick on the back-end.

The CC will provide a recipe with a mild variant that he once had — it had a slight amount of pandanus (screwpine).

Superb in every way.

Ingredients

3 cups coconut milk
3 cups chicken broth (substitute with water)
1 stalk lemongrass (sliced on a bias)
10 pieces of sliced galangal
2 chillies
1 piece pandanus
2 cilantro roots
3 kaffir lime leaves
1 tbsp palm sugar

fish sauce

12 pieces chicken (sliced against the bias into thin slices)
1 cup straw mushrooms
2 shallots (sliced lengthwise)
1-2 lime(s)
1/3 cup cilantro leaves

Note: The chicken is cut into very small pieces. It's poached in the broth. This preserves its tenderness because it's barely cooked through.

Recipe

Smash the lemongrass, galangal, and cilantro roots gently in a mortar and pestle. Add them to the coconut milk, broth, chillies, pandanus, palm sugar, and kaffir lime leaves. Bring to a boil. Simmer very gently at a low heat for 12-15 minutes.

Add fish sauce to taste (this provides the salt.)

Taste it. It should be intense, faintly sweet and fragrant. It will become tart once you add the lime later.

(Technically, you can strain it at this point but that's not the Thai way.)

You can stop the process here if you like. (Remember it's all about the smell and it dissipates so don't wait too long.)

When ready to serve with jasmine rice, bring once again to a boil. Turn off the heat. Add the chicken, mushrooms, shallots, and lime. Let it sit for 3-4 minutes.

Serve with the cilantro leaves on top.

Cooking Myths (Part 3)

This one's a doozy because it goes against all logic.

Apparently, when you steam mussels, clams or oysters, the ones that don't open should be discarded.

This defies science and logic.

Dead clams are obvious to spot. They are open and they stink. In fact, a closed clam is a healthy one because it's still alive.

When you steam them, you are in fact, killing them.

Clams, oysters, mussels – they don't possess a nervous system like mammals that feels pain so for all those vegetarians given to furious and fervent anthropomorphism, this is not unlike steaming spinach. You are killing the spinach too when you steam it and it too feels no pain!

The ones that don't open are the healthiest of them all since they are resistant. A few additional minutes of steaming always does the job.

So people prefer tossing out the best clams for the dubious ones? Sounds pretty fuckin' irrational to the CC!

Linguini with Mussels and Rosemary

This is such an easy dish to throw together on nights when cooking can be a chore.

Access to fresh mussels is a must. It's quite easy on the East Coast to get local mussels but the CC realizes that this may not be the case elsewhere.

The CC has shelled the mussels below but you need not. Just toss it all together. If you don't have rosemary, use thyme, or tarragon, or parsley. They all work perfectly.

Coupled with a simple salad, and some crusty bread to mop up the juices, it makes a perfect weekday meal. (You can share the rest of the bottle of white wine to go with it.)

Ingredients

1 lb mussels
1 onion (chopped coarsely)
2 sprigs rosemary (chopped)
3/4 cup white wine (substitute by stock/water.)

linguini (or even spaghetti)
salt
pepper

Recipe

Heat a tiny bit of oil. Toss in the mussels, and stir just for a bit. Add in the wine. Cover and steam them until they open (about 2-3 minutes.) Do not overcook. (The CC removes the mussels one by one using tongs as they open.)

Now, you want to keep the mussel water because it has all the flavor but it may have grit so you need to filter it.

Separately, in a large pan, fry the onions. Add the rosemary, black pepper, and then the mussel water. Reduce just a little bit not too much.

Cook the pasta just under al dente in heavily salted water. Toss with the mussels and the cooked liquid. Serve.

The CC has gotten it down so that the first two steps take exactly the same amount of time as the pasta to get done. So can you!

Mussels in Mustard & Tarragon Sauce

This is the kinda thing you throw together for a quick dinner when time is at a premium.

Toss in a salad, the remaining half of the bottle of white wine, and some crusty bread and you just made a comfort dinner that's both quick and delicious.

Ingredients

2 lbs mussels

4 shallots
1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp Dijon mustard (generous tbsp!)
1 sprig tarragon leaves
2 cups white wine

salt (?)
lots of black pepper

Recipe

Steam the mussels in a pot (with some water) for a few minutes until they open. Separate from the shells. Filter the mussel juice through a cheesecloth to remove any grit.

Heat the butter, fry the shallots for 6-7 minutes at a low heat. Add the white wine and the mussel juice, mustard, tarragon and black pepper, and cook for a few minutes. Blend using a hand-blender, and reduce. Test for salt (the mussels are salty enough frequently.)

Serve with some crusty bread. (The recipe works great with clams too!)

Mussels with garlic

This is such an easy recipe, but unbelievably good. Try it on some Friday night when you're too tired to cook, but still want a good meal.

Ingredients

3 shallots cut into rounds
10-12 cloves of garlic, cut into thin rounds (or more!)
mussels
clams
1/2 cup finely chopped parsley

salt
lots of black pepper

bottle of dry white
crusty bread

Recipe

Fry the shallots in olive oil till they are light golden, fry the garlic. Add lots of black pepper, and some salt (not too much, the clams will exude some too.) Toss in the mussels, and clams, 1/2 cup of the wine, and 1/2 cup of water.

Steam the mussels till they open (no more than 5-6 minutes.) Take it off the heat (important: or else the mussels and clams will shrink.) Stir in the parsley, and serve with bread. There should be a lot of liquid to sop your bread with (and it's fucking delicious!)

If you like, you can pull the mussels, and clams with tongs, reduce the broth a bit, and then stir in the parsley, and pour it over the mussels.

Dry wine, crusty bread, mussels with garlic. This is the life!