Orecchiete with Brussel Sprouts, Anchovies, Preserved Lemons & Hazelnuts

It may be counter-intuitive but winter is the season for citrus fruits. Of course, they all come from warmer climes than New York.

The CC is always reminded to update his batch of preserved lemons because of all the great Meyer lemons that are to be found in the markets.

So it's also time to use up some of them with this truly great recipe. You get umami from three separate sources — the anchovies, preserved lemons and the parmigiano-reggiano.

Also, the lemons are just mellow enough so they don't have that aggressive lemony flavor and yet they still have the all the fragrant citrus notes. This makes the dish easy to pair with wine which is difficult in the presence of aggressively sour flavors.

Lemon, black pepper and rosemary are a magical combination. Lemon and parmigiano-reggiano is also a magical combination.

The citrusy, resinous and umami notes pair perfectly while the hazelnuts act as the crunchy textural counterpoint to the dish.


Ingredients

18 brussel sprouts (halved)

1 onion (sliced into thin rounds)
1 whole preserved lemon (pith removed, cut into thin strips)
2 anchovies
1/2 cup hazelnuts

1 tbsp. finely chopped rosemary

olive oil
salt
black pepper
parmigiano-reggiano

2 cups orecchiete

Recipe

Pre-heat the oven to 350°F.

Roast the hazelnuts for about 12 minutes. They have a tendency to burn so make sure you don't overdo it. Remove from the oven. Process in a food processor until they are broken and uneven but not crushed to a powder.

Toss the halved brussel sprouts into the oven. Roast for about 18-24 minutes until they are just slightly brown but not charred.

After this, you need to time these two steps together:

Cook the pasta until al dente. Roughly 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat up some olive oil. Toss in the onions and let them fry for about 6 minutes until languid. Add the anchovies and fry for a bit. Add the brussel sprouts, rosemary, salt and pepper and toss together. Add some pasta water to make a thin sauce.

When the pasta is done, toss everything including the preserved lemons together.

Top with the hazelnuts, parmigiano-reggiano, and more black pepper.

Hazelnut Crusted Cod with Roasted New Potatoes

One of the tricks that professional chefs have is to give thematic unity to a seemingly disparate ensemble.

The dish below is an example of that.

The cod has been crusted with a mixture of hazelnuts, breadcrumbs, thyme and lemon zest.

The potatoes have been roasted with harissa, olive oil and thyme.

The vinaigrette for the salad in the background is made with lemon juice, thyme and hazelnut oil.

As you can see there's a clear thematic element of lemon, hazelnuts and thyme running through the ensemble.

There is also a clear visual and methodic disparateness. Textures, colors, cooking methods all separate to provide interest but tied into an integrated whole at an underlying level.

Whole Wheat Pasta with Caramelized Onions, Brussel Sprouts & Hazelnuts

Yeah, it's exactly as sex-on-a-plate™ as it sounds.

Three tricks:

Fry the onions first and and brussel sprouts after that, slowly and properly (probably take you 15+ mins.)

Toasted breadcrumbs are sprinkled on top right before serving.

The hazelnuts are toasted and crushed before sprinkling.

Brutti ma buoni

You have to love the Italians for these. The name translates to "ugly but good" which is an accurate enough description.

To those scared off by dessert and baking, the pressure is off. When they come out misshapen (and they will), you can claim that it was "intentional".

They are light and crispy because they contain no flour (like meringue cookies.)

Ingredients

6 egg whites
1 1/2 cups fine white sugar
2 tbsp ground cinnamon-cloves

1/2 cup hazelnuts (blanched)
1/2 cup almonds (blanched)

1/2 tsp vanilla extract

Recipe

Roast the hazelnuts and almonds till lightly toasted. Pulse in a food processor till they are broken. Do NOT grind to a fine powder.

Meanwhile, whip the egg whites till they form soft peaks. Yeah, this involves whipping air into the eggs and it takes forever and is very laborious. Deal.

The whipped egg whites are (G + S)/W in the classification scheme. They are not a sauce so they don't show up in the list.

Add the sugar, and mix till dissolved. Add the rest of the ingredients.

Put the mixture over a VERY LOW flame, and stir till thickened and golden (20 mins or so.) Do not let it burn. You need to keep stirring and scraping as it thickens.

Butter a cookie sheet and drop them into irregular lumps at intervals. Bake at 300°F for 30-40 mins until hard.

Farfalle with Mushrooms and Hazelnuts

Shockingly simple. Only the Italians can nail such simplicity.

Make it or endure regret forever.

(And contrast the slippery woodsy mushroom texture with the crunchy hazelnuts and the chewy pasta.)


Ingredients

1 lb shiitake mushrooms
1/2 lb "other" wild mushrooms
1/2 cup blanched hazelnuts (roasted, crushed, read below)
2 garlic cloves (crushed)

6-7 dried porcini mushrooms

salt
pepper

farfalle (cooked al dente)

Recipe

First preheat the oven to 450F. Roast the hazelnuts for 8-10 minutes. You will be able to "smell" when to stop. Be careful not to burn them. Pull them out and cool.

Here's a nifty trick. After they cool, wrap in plastic wrap, and crush with a heavy rolling pin. That way they are easy to control.

Meanwhile, reconstitute the dried porcini mushrooms with warm water. After 10 minutes or so, dice them. Retain the water.

Fry the garlic, then the mushrooms diced coarsely. Finally, the diced porcinis, salt and pepper. Read this post on salt first.

Last of all the water in which the porcinis was reconstituted. You need to filter the water. Just use a triangulated paper napkin as a conical filter (woo-hoo, it's high-school chemistry time!)

Reduce as needed.

Add the hazelnuts right before the al dente farfalle. Mix well, and serve.

The CC has also seen the dish finished off with cream. Both are excellent. The one without the cream is more interesting because the wild mushroom taste stands out.