Monday, December 17, 2007

Mushroom, Leek and Spinach Frittata

The frittata is one of those Italian concepts born in poverty.

Think of it as an "egg pie" with stuff added in a form convenient for both transport and storage. (Yes, Virginia! there was a world before refrigeration, and they loved picnics too!)

Before the CC goes on, let's review the "concept".

First, you "cook" a lot of stuff, let it cool, mix it in with a lot of eggs, let the eggs cook into a "pie", let it cool, and cut it up.

The pieces are high in both taste and protein, and once they cool, they will last a long time without refrigeration. Not surprisingly, they taste better the next day.

Before the CC gives the recipe, let it be noted that this is one where times and details must necessarily be approximate. You are dealing with cooking eggs, and times depends as much on how well you've fried your vegetables (aka. water content in the egg mixture) to the number of eggs, to the ratio of the diameter of your pan to your burner (aka. evaporation rate.)

In short, art is involved.

However, the recipe is simple provided you follow the CC's instructions.

In fact, you will be well served if you make sure that you never turn the gas burner above "medium low".

Ingredients

4-5 leeks
1 lb mixed mushrooms (crimini, shiitake, etc.)
5-6 dried porcini mushrooms
1 lb spinach
18 eggs
freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano
salt and pepper

Recipe

Reconstitute the dried porcini mushrooms in warm water.

First up, the mise en scène, clockwise from top left: crimini mushrooms, shiitake mushrooms, leeks, and reconstituted porcini mushrooms.

The raw spinach. Just exhibiting this here to get a sense of scale.

The spinach must be blanched in boiling water. It will change color to a dark green.

The same quantity on spinach (to show the reduction due to blanching.) Now you must take this, and squeeze, and squeeze, and squeeze, and squeeze. When you can't squeeze any more, you must squeeze further.

The spinach. This is smaller than a fist. Dice it as finely as you can.

Les oeufs

Grated parmesan added.

Add some black pepper (not shown), and whip the eggs until they are nice and fluffy.

Now, we're going to fry the leeks, and the veggies. First up, the leeks at a medium-low heat. All this frying will try your patience (you cannot hurry this.)

The leeks look done.

In go, the shiitakes.

Almost 5 minutes later.

In go the criminis.

Five minutes later.

In go the diced porcinis (save the water, filter it, and add it to the beaten eggs.)

Lastly, the spinach.

The fried mixture (almost 10 minutes later.) You must let this cool to room temperature before adding to the egg mixture (otherwise the heat will coagulate the egg proteins.) The CC just stuck it in the fridge to cool.

The whipped eggs along with the above mixture.

Heat the pan at a "medium low" heat, and toss in the mixture. Roughly five minutes in, take a spatula, and insert it around the edges and under to check that the egg surface has solidified. The surface will still be wet. Cover, and let it cook for 8-10 minutes checking periodically. (covering is important!)

Lift the cover. If the eggs looked steamed through, remove the cover. Traditionally, this was the time they put the skillet under the broiler to cook the top. However you can just let the ensemble keep cooking for 7-8 minutes on a very low heat. (It is important that it be uncovered to let whatever moisture there is escape.)

The frittata very close to the end.

The frittata

1 comment:

Necropraxis said...

You can also finish in the oven, 300 or 350 deg F. Nice even heat. I also do that with omelets, since not-totally-denatured egg white proteins make my throat itch.