Well, turkey is conventional but we all have our own little traditions.
The CC always features pomegranates at his Thanksgiving dinner.
How did it start? Many a moon ago, the CC's friends and the CC decided that they liked pomegranates better than cranberries, and so it began.
The CC tries to vary it up each year, featuring it in totally different ways, everything from pomegranate juice and champagne to dessert made with pomegranates.
One year, the CC was being helped by a "cooking virgin". Needless to say, the CC could hardly resist handing him the task of plucking the pomegranate seeds.
The poor boy plucked out each seed one by one not knowing how to pluck a pomegranate. After half an hour, the CC showed him how to invert the peel, and brush off the seeds. His jaw dropped, some choice words were bandied about the CC's heritage, he hastily retreated in a sulky mood to the boudoir, beer in hand, and proceeded to yell at the television until the rest of the guests arrived.
Whee! What fun we have together!
So readers, what are your traditions for Thanksgiving?
Wednesday, November 22, 2006
Tuesday, November 21, 2006
No-Knead Bread (from the NYT)
The CC is not in the habit of other people's recipes verbatim, but this thing is so fucking amazing that you might as well blow out the CC's brains with a 2x4.
The internet forums have been buzzing about this for the last week or so. You might've thought that Elvis was making a reappearance or something from the buzz that this thing got.
Warning: this dough is absurdly slack (roughly 72% baker's hydration,) so you need a little bit of experience working with this kinda dough. However, this recipe is so fool-proof (rare in the bread world!) that you can hardly go wrong.
You will need a "baker scraper" which is a steel thing with a super blunt edge so that you can scrape the dough off a flat surface.
This bread is absolutely amazing. Here are some pictures of the CC's effort.
November 8, 2006 New York Times
Recipe: No-Knead Bread
Adapted from Jim Lahey, Sullivan Street Bakery
Time: About 1 1/2 hours plus 14 to 20 hours' rising
3 cups all-purpose or bread flour, more for dusting
1/4 teaspoon instant yeast
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
Cornmeal or wheat bran as needed.
1. In a large bowl combine flour, yeast and salt. Add 1 1/2 cups water, and stir until blended; dough will be shaggy and sticky. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let dough rest at least 12 hours, preferably about 18, at warm room temperature, about 70 degrees.
2. Dough is ready when its surface is dotted with bubbles. Lightly flour a work surface and place dough on it; sprinkle it with a little more flour and fold it over on itself once or twice. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rest about 15 minutes.
3. Using just enough flour to keep dough from sticking to work surface or to your fingers, gently and quickly shape dough into a ball. Generously coat a cotton towel (not terry cloth) with flour, wheat bran or cornmeal; put dough seam side down on towel and dust with more flour, bran or cornmeal. Cover with another cotton towel and let rise for about 2 hours. When it is ready, dough will be more than double in size and will not readily spring back when poked with a finger.
4. At least a half-hour before dough is ready, heat oven to 450 degrees. Put a 6- to 8-quart heavy covered pot (cast iron, enamel, Pyrex or ceramic) in oven as it heats. When dough is ready, carefully remove pot from oven. Slide your hand under towel and turn dough over into pot, seam side up; it may look like a mess, but that is O.K. Shake pan once or twice if dough is unevenly distributed; it will straighten out as it bakes. Cover with lid and bake 30 minutes, then remove lid and bake another 15 to 30 minutes, until loaf is beautifully browned. Cool on a rack.
Yield: One 1 1/2-pound loaf.
The internet forums have been buzzing about this for the last week or so. You might've thought that Elvis was making a reappearance or something from the buzz that this thing got.
Warning: this dough is absurdly slack (roughly 72% baker's hydration,) so you need a little bit of experience working with this kinda dough. However, this recipe is so fool-proof (rare in the bread world!) that you can hardly go wrong.
You will need a "baker scraper" which is a steel thing with a super blunt edge so that you can scrape the dough off a flat surface.
This bread is absolutely amazing. Here are some pictures of the CC's effort.
November 8, 2006 New York Times
Recipe: No-Knead Bread
Adapted from Jim Lahey, Sullivan Street Bakery
Time: About 1 1/2 hours plus 14 to 20 hours' rising
3 cups all-purpose or bread flour, more for dusting
1/4 teaspoon instant yeast
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
Cornmeal or wheat bran as needed.
1. In a large bowl combine flour, yeast and salt. Add 1 1/2 cups water, and stir until blended; dough will be shaggy and sticky. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let dough rest at least 12 hours, preferably about 18, at warm room temperature, about 70 degrees.
2. Dough is ready when its surface is dotted with bubbles. Lightly flour a work surface and place dough on it; sprinkle it with a little more flour and fold it over on itself once or twice. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rest about 15 minutes.
3. Using just enough flour to keep dough from sticking to work surface or to your fingers, gently and quickly shape dough into a ball. Generously coat a cotton towel (not terry cloth) with flour, wheat bran or cornmeal; put dough seam side down on towel and dust with more flour, bran or cornmeal. Cover with another cotton towel and let rise for about 2 hours. When it is ready, dough will be more than double in size and will not readily spring back when poked with a finger.
4. At least a half-hour before dough is ready, heat oven to 450 degrees. Put a 6- to 8-quart heavy covered pot (cast iron, enamel, Pyrex or ceramic) in oven as it heats. When dough is ready, carefully remove pot from oven. Slide your hand under towel and turn dough over into pot, seam side up; it may look like a mess, but that is O.K. Shake pan once or twice if dough is unevenly distributed; it will straighten out as it bakes. Cover with lid and bake 30 minutes, then remove lid and bake another 15 to 30 minutes, until loaf is beautifully browned. Cool on a rack.
Yield: One 1 1/2-pound loaf.
Saturday, November 18, 2006
Cauliflowers : Part 1
Can you say fractal and Fibonacci series?
This amazing beauty is a Romanesco cauliflower.
The CC found it at his local farmers' market.
The CC is just about ecstatic at the wondrous combination of his two loves, food and mathematics!
Monday, November 13, 2006
"Lemon" Rice
The "lemon" in the recipe actually refers to "lime" as the CC has discussed in the Hindenburg of culinary disasters!.
This is a basic everyday kinda recipe from the South of India, and like basic everyday kinda recipes, you have to make it just so, otherwise you'll be left wondering what the fuss was all about.
Made right, this is the ultimate comfort food.
Theoretically speaking, this is no different from a risotto except with different flavoring, and the rice is slightly firmer, and less "wet".
The CC will grant that the ingredients "seem" a bit a exotic. They're not exotic in India (duh!) nor are they particularly exotic in any city that the CC has lived in or visited (which means both coasts, and Chicago.)
In fact, minus one ingredient, they are downright pedestrian.
This must be served with yogurt. Good yogurt, the Greek kind, not the pasteurized garbage that passes for food in this country.
Guess what the CC is eating for dinner tonight!
Ingredients
6-8 curry leaves (this is the exotic one! try dried if you can't get fresh)
1 tbsp mustard seeds
2 tbsp "urad" daal (lentils, easy to get at your local Indian store.)
1 medium red onion, diced (optional)
3-5 serranos (cut into very fine rounds)
1/4 cup peanuts
1 cup basmati rice (no other will do!)
1/4 tsp turmeric
juice of 4 limes
salt
Recipe
Fry some oil, and add the mustard. Cover, and wait till the mustard "pops". Add the urad, fry for a bit, add the onion, fry for a bit (till pale), add the serranos, fry for a bit, add the curry leaves, fry for a bit, add the peanuts, fry for a bit, add the rice, fry till the rice is coated with the oil.
Add the turmeric and salt, and roughly 1.5 cups of water. Turn to a low simmer, and let it cook uncovered till the rice is nearly cooked. Add the lime juice towards the end.
Serve hot with yogurt!
This is a basic everyday kinda recipe from the South of India, and like basic everyday kinda recipes, you have to make it just so, otherwise you'll be left wondering what the fuss was all about.
Made right, this is the ultimate comfort food.
Theoretically speaking, this is no different from a risotto except with different flavoring, and the rice is slightly firmer, and less "wet".
The CC will grant that the ingredients "seem" a bit a exotic. They're not exotic in India (duh!) nor are they particularly exotic in any city that the CC has lived in or visited (which means both coasts, and Chicago.)
In fact, minus one ingredient, they are downright pedestrian.
This must be served with yogurt. Good yogurt, the Greek kind, not the pasteurized garbage that passes for food in this country.
Guess what the CC is eating for dinner tonight!
Ingredients
6-8 curry leaves (this is the exotic one! try dried if you can't get fresh)
1 tbsp mustard seeds
2 tbsp "urad" daal (lentils, easy to get at your local Indian store.)
1 medium red onion, diced (optional)
3-5 serranos (cut into very fine rounds)
1/4 cup peanuts
1 cup basmati rice (no other will do!)
1/4 tsp turmeric
juice of 4 limes
salt
Recipe
Fry some oil, and add the mustard. Cover, and wait till the mustard "pops". Add the urad, fry for a bit, add the onion, fry for a bit (till pale), add the serranos, fry for a bit, add the curry leaves, fry for a bit, add the peanuts, fry for a bit, add the rice, fry till the rice is coated with the oil.
Add the turmeric and salt, and roughly 1.5 cups of water. Turn to a low simmer, and let it cook uncovered till the rice is nearly cooked. Add the lime juice towards the end.
Serve hot with yogurt!
Sunday, November 12, 2006
Harlem Renaissance
Who would've guessed, say a few years ago, that Harlem would turn into a foodie powerhouse?
In hindsight (always a dangerous game,) it's not unreasonable.
Over the last few weeks, I've been to two amazing places in Harlem, one Haitian, and the other Ethiopian. There's also the French-Senegalese place that I can't sing enough praises of (and which the CC has dragged people to over their objections -- you know exactly who you are, and you were wrong, and the CC was right, and that's all that counts in the end!)
Think of this blog entry as a "teaser trailer". Call me if you actually want to go to these places.
You know you want it!
In hindsight (always a dangerous game,) it's not unreasonable.
Over the last few weeks, I've been to two amazing places in Harlem, one Haitian, and the other Ethiopian. There's also the French-Senegalese place that I can't sing enough praises of (and which the CC has dragged people to over their objections -- you know exactly who you are, and you were wrong, and the CC was right, and that's all that counts in the end!)
Think of this blog entry as a "teaser trailer". Call me if you actually want to go to these places.
You know you want it!
Friday, November 10, 2006
Controversial Recipes
Who knew that this bipartisan blog would draw controversy?
The recipe that seems to have generated much finger-waving, and hand-pointing is the recent recipe for Chocolate-covered garlic.
Comments (all private!) have ranged from, "Really?" to "I don't believe you!".
Thankfully, nobody so far has run a campaign to trash the CC's character on televison.
So let's understand why this recipe works from a scientific point of view. Out comes Harold McGee's tome, On Food and Cooking, which the CC will note is both exhaustive and exhausting.
Like the sunchoke family and its relatives, the onion family accumulates energy stores not in starch, but in chains of fructose sugars, which long, slow cooking breaks down to produce a marked sweetness.
Incidentally, these fructose sugars are not directly digestible by humans explaining the "gas" produced when eating raw onions, garlic, shallots, etc. Both the sulphurous content, and the indigestibility are Darwinian "defense mechanisms" against mammals eating the food store. (Hence also, the "sting" of sharp onions.)
But, we humans figured out a way.
Roasting garlic (and the whole onion family) is a time-honored way of changing its aggressive sulphurous character into a much sweeter one. In this particular case, the recipe is really braising (along with a ton of sugar) which will turn the garlic both soft and sweet while eliminating the volatile sulphurous molecules that make it "garlicky".
Hopefully, this intellectual argument will detract some of the objectors, but really, the best way is to just experience it first-hand!
The recipe that seems to have generated much finger-waving, and hand-pointing is the recent recipe for Chocolate-covered garlic.
Comments (all private!) have ranged from, "Really?" to "I don't believe you!".
Thankfully, nobody so far has run a campaign to trash the CC's character on televison.
So let's understand why this recipe works from a scientific point of view. Out comes Harold McGee's tome, On Food and Cooking, which the CC will note is both exhaustive and exhausting.
Like the sunchoke family and its relatives, the onion family accumulates energy stores not in starch, but in chains of fructose sugars, which long, slow cooking breaks down to produce a marked sweetness.
Incidentally, these fructose sugars are not directly digestible by humans explaining the "gas" produced when eating raw onions, garlic, shallots, etc. Both the sulphurous content, and the indigestibility are Darwinian "defense mechanisms" against mammals eating the food store. (Hence also, the "sting" of sharp onions.)
But, we humans figured out a way.
Roasting garlic (and the whole onion family) is a time-honored way of changing its aggressive sulphurous character into a much sweeter one. In this particular case, the recipe is really braising (along with a ton of sugar) which will turn the garlic both soft and sweet while eliminating the volatile sulphurous molecules that make it "garlicky".
Hopefully, this intellectual argument will detract some of the objectors, but really, the best way is to just experience it first-hand!
Tuesday, November 7, 2006
Simple French Food
One of the words in the title of Richard Olney's book is like a time-release bomb waiting to go off.
The CC will not be providing hints as to which one.
After a six page discussion on the definition of "simplicity" (uh oh!), we are informed that "simplicity is a complicated thing", and that "If food is not good, it is not simple."
By this definition, everything from a hard-boiled egg to beef bourgignon is "simple" but only if it is "good".
The CC is not making this up, you know!
However, this is a wonderful book which everyone should have. It is simply too brilliant for words.
He does give a great way of poaching eggs perfectly each time - boil water, turn off heat, crack an egg, cover, leave it alone, repeat for more.
Now, that is in the ordinary sense of the word, simple.
The purpose of this post is to warn the reader so that, unlike the CC, they will neither be scarred for life nor need therapy.
The CC will not be providing hints as to which one.
After a six page discussion on the definition of "simplicity" (uh oh!), we are informed that "simplicity is a complicated thing", and that "If food is not good, it is not simple."
By this definition, everything from a hard-boiled egg to beef bourgignon is "simple" but only if it is "good".
The CC is not making this up, you know!
However, this is a wonderful book which everyone should have. It is simply too brilliant for words.
He does give a great way of poaching eggs perfectly each time - boil water, turn off heat, crack an egg, cover, leave it alone, repeat for more.
Now, that is in the ordinary sense of the word, simple.
The purpose of this post is to warn the reader so that, unlike the CC, they will neither be scarred for life nor need therapy.
Monday, November 6, 2006
Chocolate-covered garlic
This recipe sounds downright stupid at first but it's actually really really good.
Ingredients
24 cloves of garlic (peeled)
1/2 cup red wine
1/4 cup sugar
4 tbsp lemon zest
1 bar "high" cacao chocolate
Recipe
Bring the first four ingredients to a boil. Cook on very low heat uncovered for 25-30 minutes (stirring occasionally.) Let it cool for a bit. The cloves should be quite sticky.
Melt the chocolate (you can either microwave at a low heat, or dip a glass bowl in boiling water.)
Dip each clove in the melted chocolate, and place them on a piece of foil. Transfer to the refrigerator and let it cool for at least an hour.
Best eaten fresh.
Ingredients
24 cloves of garlic (peeled)
1/2 cup red wine
1/4 cup sugar
4 tbsp lemon zest
1 bar "high" cacao chocolate
Recipe
Bring the first four ingredients to a boil. Cook on very low heat uncovered for 25-30 minutes (stirring occasionally.) Let it cool for a bit. The cloves should be quite sticky.
Melt the chocolate (you can either microwave at a low heat, or dip a glass bowl in boiling water.)
Dip each clove in the melted chocolate, and place them on a piece of foil. Transfer to the refrigerator and let it cool for at least an hour.
Best eaten fresh.
Sunday, November 5, 2006
Kalustyan's
It's the temple of food.
You readers in New York should already know it. If not, you might as well move to Kansas.
For the rest of you, name an exotic rice, spice, flour, or lentil, and this place has it. It's even alphabetized because there's no Dewey Decimal System or ISBN system for food (particularly when it comes from all around the globe.)
Regional conflicts need not apply!
However, the CC dreads going there because each time he goes there he ends up dropping more than he rationally should. Oh well! At least he and his friends eat well.
What's more they ship around the world. Give it a whirl!
You readers in New York should already know it. If not, you might as well move to Kansas.
For the rest of you, name an exotic rice, spice, flour, or lentil, and this place has it. It's even alphabetized because there's no Dewey Decimal System or ISBN system for food (particularly when it comes from all around the globe.)
Regional conflicts need not apply!
However, the CC dreads going there because each time he goes there he ends up dropping more than he rationally should. Oh well! At least he and his friends eat well.
What's more they ship around the world. Give it a whirl!
Raw Beef (Ethiopian style)
The way to judge an Ethiopian restaurant is how well they make kitfo which is raw ground beef mixed with mit' mita (finely ground "hot" spices), and nit' ir kibbeh (also spelt qibe which is clarified butter cooked with spices.)
Vegetarians, and food-phobes need not apply!
The first time the CC went to a restaurant that specialized in it, the staff came out twice to ask if we were sure of what we were getting.
"We are", cried the CC and his good friend.
Then the chef came out to make doubly sure that we knew of what we wanted. Not only were we not disappointed but we had a magnificent evening because the staff loved us for ordering their specialty.
Last night, the CC ate at a lovely place in South Harlem that had excellent kitfo. The waitress positively glowed when the CC praised the kitfo.
Try it! You may even get addicted to it. (Watch this space for a recipe.)
Vegetarians, and food-phobes need not apply!
The first time the CC went to a restaurant that specialized in it, the staff came out twice to ask if we were sure of what we were getting.
"We are", cried the CC and his good friend.
Then the chef came out to make doubly sure that we knew of what we wanted. Not only were we not disappointed but we had a magnificent evening because the staff loved us for ordering their specialty.
Last night, the CC ate at a lovely place in South Harlem that had excellent kitfo. The waitress positively glowed when the CC praised the kitfo.
Try it! You may even get addicted to it. (Watch this space for a recipe.)
Wednesday, November 1, 2006
The Role of Illusions
Every once in a while, we are called upon to make dishes with constraints in mind. This is truly the mark of a good chef.
Cooking is like magic. Sometimes you need to create an illusion.
The CC was called upon to make a classic French Onion Soup minus the beef.
"Impossible, you say?"
"Hard work," says the CC.
The CC made a traditional beef broth side by side with a mushroom broth more than a few times till even the most discerning audience could not tell the difference. In fact, he served it with impunity to an audience (who loved it,) and then revealed the truth.
The CC presents a mushroom broth quite specifically made for classic French Onion Soup (recipe to follow.)
Ingredients
1 large red onion (diced)
1 lb crimini mushrooms (quartered)
2 large portabella mushrooms (diced)
2 carrots (diced)
1/2 cup celery (diced)
3 bay leaves
1 sprig rosemary
10-12 peppercorns
salt to taste
olive oil
10-12 cups of water (approximate - just fill the pot.)
Recipe
Saute the onions in olive oil until pale pink/slightly brown. Add the peppercorns, and saute for a bit. Add the carrots and celery and saute for a bit till soft. Add the mushrooms, and saute for a bit. Add the cold water (it's important that it be cold.) and bring to a very low simmer.
Simmer for 70-90 minutes while skimming periodically.
Over a bowl, strain the broth from the vegetables using a sieve lined with several layers of a cheesecloth. Let the vegetables cool for a while. Take the cheesecloth and squeeze the vegetables to extract more of the juice into the bowl until no more comes out. Discard the pulp.
You may freeze this for a long time.
Cooking is like magic. Sometimes you need to create an illusion.
The CC was called upon to make a classic French Onion Soup minus the beef.
"Impossible, you say?"
"Hard work," says the CC.
The CC made a traditional beef broth side by side with a mushroom broth more than a few times till even the most discerning audience could not tell the difference. In fact, he served it with impunity to an audience (who loved it,) and then revealed the truth.
The CC presents a mushroom broth quite specifically made for classic French Onion Soup (recipe to follow.)
Ingredients
1 large red onion (diced)
1 lb crimini mushrooms (quartered)
2 large portabella mushrooms (diced)
2 carrots (diced)
1/2 cup celery (diced)
3 bay leaves
1 sprig rosemary
10-12 peppercorns
salt to taste
olive oil
10-12 cups of water (approximate - just fill the pot.)
Recipe
Saute the onions in olive oil until pale pink/slightly brown. Add the peppercorns, and saute for a bit. Add the carrots and celery and saute for a bit till soft. Add the mushrooms, and saute for a bit. Add the cold water (it's important that it be cold.) and bring to a very low simmer.
Simmer for 70-90 minutes while skimming periodically.
Over a bowl, strain the broth from the vegetables using a sieve lined with several layers of a cheesecloth. Let the vegetables cool for a while. Take the cheesecloth and squeeze the vegetables to extract more of the juice into the bowl until no more comes out. Discard the pulp.
You may freeze this for a long time.
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