This is it. Summer is gone.
Tomatoes, last of the cherry tomatoes, last of the eggplants, chives, onions.
Saw cauliflower for the first time. Fall is here.
Saturday, September 29, 2012
Friday, September 28, 2012
Okra
Most people have a love/hate affair with the vegetable. The CC naturally loves it.
When he was but a little child, he adored it beyond reason. (Clearly, the CC had advanced tastes even back then.)
The trick with okra that makes it "slimy" is that if it's wet, it has a tendency to leak slime. Cellular-wall decomposition and all that. It needs to be pan-fried at a high-heat and it's absolutely necessary that the okra not be wet. You will get spectacular reaults if you just ensure this simple rule.
You must dry it thoroughly with a piece of cloth or if you are lazy, pop it in a pre-heated oven at very low heat (without allowing it to cook.) Either way, the okra must be bone-dry.
The recipe below is a classic Bengali Recipe. As you might guess, there are similar recipes with variations in the spices all over India with much discussion about which is the "best".
The CC refuses to get into that particular Vietnam. He likes them all and the topic is a bit of a snooze-fest anyway.
This one is quite lovely (particularly because of the fennel and nigella) but why quibble over relative greatness?
Dharosh Chorchori
Ingredients
15 pods okra
1 large onion (sliced into thin quarter-moons)
1 1/2 tsp turmeric
1 green chilli (diced fine)
3-4 fresh green chillies
2 tbsp oil
1 tbsp panch phoran
salt (to taste)
Recipe
Slice of the stem and tip of the okra. Make a couple of length-wise gashes on the body of the vegetable.
Slit the 3-4 green chillies length-wise with a gash.
Pound the turmeric and finely diced chillies with a tablespoon of water and grind to a fine paste.
Heat the oil in a wok. Add panch phoran and cook till the spluttering stops. Add the okra. Stir-fry for about 6 minutes. Add salt, the masala paste, the sliced onions and the green chillies.
Stir-fry for about 2-3 minutes. Add about half a cup of water. Simmer till the pan is nearly dry.
(Note: This is a "dry dish". It would normally be served with rice, a "wet dish" and a daal.)
When he was but a little child, he adored it beyond reason. (Clearly, the CC had advanced tastes even back then.)
The trick with okra that makes it "slimy" is that if it's wet, it has a tendency to leak slime. Cellular-wall decomposition and all that. It needs to be pan-fried at a high-heat and it's absolutely necessary that the okra not be wet. You will get spectacular reaults if you just ensure this simple rule.
You must dry it thoroughly with a piece of cloth or if you are lazy, pop it in a pre-heated oven at very low heat (without allowing it to cook.) Either way, the okra must be bone-dry.
The recipe below is a classic Bengali Recipe. As you might guess, there are similar recipes with variations in the spices all over India with much discussion about which is the "best".
The CC refuses to get into that particular Vietnam. He likes them all and the topic is a bit of a snooze-fest anyway.
This one is quite lovely (particularly because of the fennel and nigella) but why quibble over relative greatness?
Dharosh Chorchori
Ingredients
15 pods okra
1 large onion (sliced into thin quarter-moons)
1 1/2 tsp turmeric
1 green chilli (diced fine)
3-4 fresh green chillies
2 tbsp oil
1 tbsp panch phoran
salt (to taste)
Recipe
Slice of the stem and tip of the okra. Make a couple of length-wise gashes on the body of the vegetable.
Slit the 3-4 green chillies length-wise with a gash.
Pound the turmeric and finely diced chillies with a tablespoon of water and grind to a fine paste.
Heat the oil in a wok. Add panch phoran and cook till the spluttering stops. Add the okra. Stir-fry for about 6 minutes. Add salt, the masala paste, the sliced onions and the green chillies.
Stir-fry for about 2-3 minutes. Add about half a cup of water. Simmer till the pan is nearly dry.
(Note: This is a "dry dish". It would normally be served with rice, a "wet dish" and a daal.)
Monday, September 24, 2012
Panch Phoran
It's a classic Bengali spice-mixture. Literally means five-spices (although different from the Chinese five-spice mix.)
It consists of equal parts of cumin, fennel, fenugreek, nigella and radhuni.
The latter may be hard to get but it's necessary.
Although they ask you to substitute by mustard seeds, radhuni tastes nothing like mustard. It's closer in spirit to celery seeds than anything else.
It consists of equal parts of cumin, fennel, fenugreek, nigella and radhuni.
The latter may be hard to get but it's necessary.
Although they ask you to substitute by mustard seeds, radhuni tastes nothing like mustard. It's closer in spirit to celery seeds than anything else.
Saturday, September 22, 2012
Late Summer Harvest
Pole beans, purple beans, cranberry beans, tomatoes (heirloom and not-so-heirloom), onions, zucchini, pattypan-squash, chives, basil, rosemary.
Not in the least bit over-the-top. No sirree!
Not in the least bit over-the-top. No sirree!
Friday, September 21, 2012
Yellow Nails
The CC was expecting it. Any moment the question would be asked.
It was asked today.
"Why are your nails yellow? You don't smoke!
The CC laughed. He has been the beneficiary of fresh turmeric and has been cooking a lot with it recently (recipes and pictures to follow.)
Turmeric stains your hands and your nails. Alas, good food has consequences.
The stains shall fade but the food will live on in the blogs!
It was asked today.
"Why are your nails yellow? You don't smoke!
The CC laughed. He has been the beneficiary of fresh turmeric and has been cooking a lot with it recently (recipes and pictures to follow.)
Turmeric stains your hands and your nails. Alas, good food has consequences.
The stains shall fade but the food will live on in the blogs!
Clams in Dry Masala
Every week a local fisherman comes to the farmers' market. They have whatever they catch the previous day.
This being the East Coast, they always have clams which the CC never fully appreciated before living out here. Now, they are the most purchased weekly item (after tomatoes, of course!)
There are two classics that the CC makes often — spaghetti with clams and asari gohan (あさりご飯).
This recipe is from the Konkan region in India. It's quite straightforward, and it's in the sukke style (as in it's a dry dish.)
Ingredients
2 dozen clams
1 small onion (diced fine)
1 sprig curry leaves
1/2 cup fresh/frozen coconut
2-3 pieces of tamarind
1/2 tsp turmeric
1 tsp chilli powder (or more)
oil
salt
Recipe
First soak the tamarind pieces in 1/2 cup of boiling water. Set aside for 15 minutes or so. When done, mash the tamarind with your hands (the water should've cooled down.) Pass through a fine sieve and retain the liquid. Toss in the turmeric, chilli powder and salt into the liquid and mix thoroughly. Make sure you don't get lumps of turmeric and/or chilli powder. You need to make sure they mix thoroughly.
In a small pot, heat the oil. When it shimmers, fry the onions until they are translucent. Add the curry leaves and fry for a bit. Add the coconut and fry for a minute. Add the clams and fry for a bit. Toss in the tamarind liquid (which has the spices mixed in.)
Cook uncovered until the clams open. Serve immediately with rice.
This being the East Coast, they always have clams which the CC never fully appreciated before living out here. Now, they are the most purchased weekly item (after tomatoes, of course!)
There are two classics that the CC makes often — spaghetti with clams and asari gohan (あさりご飯).
This recipe is from the Konkan region in India. It's quite straightforward, and it's in the sukke style (as in it's a dry dish.)
Ingredients
2 dozen clams
1 small onion (diced fine)
1 sprig curry leaves
1/2 cup fresh/frozen coconut
2-3 pieces of tamarind
1/2 tsp turmeric
1 tsp chilli powder (or more)
oil
salt
Recipe
First soak the tamarind pieces in 1/2 cup of boiling water. Set aside for 15 minutes or so. When done, mash the tamarind with your hands (the water should've cooled down.) Pass through a fine sieve and retain the liquid. Toss in the turmeric, chilli powder and salt into the liquid and mix thoroughly. Make sure you don't get lumps of turmeric and/or chilli powder. You need to make sure they mix thoroughly.
In a small pot, heat the oil. When it shimmers, fry the onions until they are translucent. Add the curry leaves and fry for a bit. Add the coconut and fry for a minute. Add the clams and fry for a bit. Toss in the tamarind liquid (which has the spices mixed in.)
Cook uncovered until the clams open. Serve immediately with rice.
Tuesday, September 18, 2012
Sunday, September 16, 2012
Tortang Talong (Eggplant Omelette)
Summer means eggplant, and there's no better way to start off a Sunday than with this sublime combination of smoky eggplants and eggs.
Incidentally, the Filipino world is divided into those that add ground pork as a topping, and those that don't. The CC refuses to take sides in this particular debate. De gustibus ..., etc.
Ingredients
(serves 2)
2 eggplants
2 eggs
1 tbsp patis (substitute with salt)
oil
Recipe
Grill the eggplants until the skin is charred. If you don't have a grill (like the CC), stick them directly on top of the flame of the burner. Keep turning until it is nicely charred. Set aside.
When cool, the skin will peel off quite easily.
Gently smash the eggplant with a fork into a flat roundish shape (like the picture above.) Try not to puncture it. (If you do, don't worry too much. The eggs will seal it.)
In a separate bowl, crack the eggs. Add the patis and whip till blended.
Each eggplant will be dipped in this mixture and pan-fried.
Heat some oil in a skillet. When shimmering, add the egg-dipped eggplant. As the egg sets, you will need to gently wrap it around the eggplant.
Serve hot. (The topping above is Sriracha, of course!)
Incidentally, the Filipino world is divided into those that add ground pork as a topping, and those that don't. The CC refuses to take sides in this particular debate. De gustibus ..., etc.
Ingredients
(serves 2)
2 eggplants
2 eggs
1 tbsp patis (substitute with salt)
oil
Recipe
Grill the eggplants until the skin is charred. If you don't have a grill (like the CC), stick them directly on top of the flame of the burner. Keep turning until it is nicely charred. Set aside.
When cool, the skin will peel off quite easily.
Gently smash the eggplant with a fork into a flat roundish shape (like the picture above.) Try not to puncture it. (If you do, don't worry too much. The eggs will seal it.)
In a separate bowl, crack the eggs. Add the patis and whip till blended.
Each eggplant will be dipped in this mixture and pan-fried.
Heat some oil in a skillet. When shimmering, add the egg-dipped eggplant. As the egg sets, you will need to gently wrap it around the eggplant.
Serve hot. (The topping above is Sriracha, of course!)
Saturday, September 15, 2012
Panzanella
Been craving it for a month. Finally got it.
The CC is in a tomato-haze.
Cucina di povera never goes wrong when the cravings hit.
The CC is in a tomato-haze.
Cucina di povera never goes wrong when the cravings hit.
Tomato Heaven
The CC's freezer is filled with homemade "tomato paste" and a large amount of "tomato sauce".
The house smells divine.
Some of the "tomato sauce" will be for present consumption. Some more might be made depending on the weather.
Bring it on, February!
The house smells divine.
Some of the "tomato sauce" will be for present consumption. Some more might be made depending on the weather.
Bring it on, February!
The Return of Tomato Man!
Today at the farmers' market, the CC was grabbing tomatoes to make tomato sauce and tomato paste to freeze.
The farmer said, "Grab them while you can, Tomato Man. Fall is coming. I can see the fear in your eyes!"
The farmer said, "Grab them while you can, Tomato Man. Fall is coming. I can see the fear in your eyes!"
Monday, September 10, 2012
Raita with Cherry Tomatoes & Chives
Authenticity be damned, the CC damn near ate the entire thing while tasting it!
(It's not that far removed from a classic onion and tomato raita. So there!)
Ingredients
1 cup Greek yogurt
12 red cherry tomatoes
12 yellow cherry tomatoes
1/4 cup chopped chives
salt
black pepper
Recipe
Quarter the tomatoes. Toss everything together. You may need to add a few tablespoons of water to get the desired smooth consistency.
(It's not that far removed from a classic onion and tomato raita. So there!)
Ingredients
1 cup Greek yogurt
12 red cherry tomatoes
12 yellow cherry tomatoes
1/4 cup chopped chives
salt
black pepper
Recipe
Quarter the tomatoes. Toss everything together. You may need to add a few tablespoons of water to get the desired smooth consistency.
Saturday, September 8, 2012
Ginisang Ampalaya (Sautéed Bitter-Melons with Egg)
This one is for the bitter melon lovers out there. (You know who you are.)
It's a straightforward Filipino breakfast dish. You sautée some bitter melon rounds with onions, patis (fish sauce), garlic, black pepper and eggs.
You can add ground pork, or not. You can add bell peppers, or not. You can add tomatoes, or not.
There's a lot of that "or not" in Filipino cooking.
Only constant here seem to be that it wouldn't make any sense to have a sautéed bitter melon dish without bitter melons, would it now?
Also, the eggs are key. They act as counterpoint.
The eggs were lightly scrambled because that's the way the CC rolls.
You may want to roll differently, or not.
It's a straightforward Filipino breakfast dish. You sautée some bitter melon rounds with onions, patis (fish sauce), garlic, black pepper and eggs.
You can add ground pork, or not. You can add bell peppers, or not. You can add tomatoes, or not.
There's a lot of that "or not" in Filipino cooking.
Only constant here seem to be that it wouldn't make any sense to have a sautéed bitter melon dish without bitter melons, would it now?
Also, the eggs are key. They act as counterpoint.
The eggs were lightly scrambled because that's the way the CC rolls.
You may want to roll differently, or not.
Wednesday, September 5, 2012
Tomato Risotto with Oregano, Fennel & Feta
This recipe was originally by Diane Kochilas — a Greek adaptation of the Italian risotto — and it had the risotto cooked in Ouzo. (Can you hear the howls from Italy already?)
Anise tends to have an overpowering smell (at least to the CC) so he toned it down by using fresh fennel instead of Ouzo or Pernod.
Incidentally, fresh fennel is still plenty potent.
The feta does add a wonderfully creamy element, and the recipe tends towards the richer side because of the overpowering smell from the fennel and umami from the summer tomatoes.
Ingredients
8 ripe tomatoes
1 bulb fennel (finely chopped)
1 shallot (finely minced)
4 cloves garlic (finely minced)
2 cups carnaroli rice
4 cups broth.
2 tbsp fresh oregano (chopped)
1 tbsp lemon zest (optional)
olive oil
salt
black pepper
2/3 cup feta
Recipe
The original recipe has the tomatoes grated over a box grater but with summer tomatoes, it was easy enough to just pass them through a food mill.
Sautée the shallots, fennel and garlic in olive oil. Keep the broth on a simmer in a separate vessel near by.
Add the rice and fry making sure that each rice grain is covered in the oil.
Add the broth and the tomatoes alternately. Keep stirring the risotto until it absorbs all the broth. Make sure it's not over cooked. It should still have a bite (al dente) and the mixture should just be slightly on the wet side.
Stir in the feta, oregano and lemon zest at the end right before serving.
Anise tends to have an overpowering smell (at least to the CC) so he toned it down by using fresh fennel instead of Ouzo or Pernod.
Incidentally, fresh fennel is still plenty potent.
The feta does add a wonderfully creamy element, and the recipe tends towards the richer side because of the overpowering smell from the fennel and umami from the summer tomatoes.
Ingredients
8 ripe tomatoes
1 bulb fennel (finely chopped)
1 shallot (finely minced)
4 cloves garlic (finely minced)
2 cups carnaroli rice
4 cups broth.
2 tbsp fresh oregano (chopped)
1 tbsp lemon zest (optional)
olive oil
salt
black pepper
2/3 cup feta
Recipe
The original recipe has the tomatoes grated over a box grater but with summer tomatoes, it was easy enough to just pass them through a food mill.
Sautée the shallots, fennel and garlic in olive oil. Keep the broth on a simmer in a separate vessel near by.
Add the rice and fry making sure that each rice grain is covered in the oil.
Add the broth and the tomatoes alternately. Keep stirring the risotto until it absorbs all the broth. Make sure it's not over cooked. It should still have a bite (al dente) and the mixture should just be slightly on the wet side.
Stir in the feta, oregano and lemon zest at the end right before serving.
Monday, September 3, 2012
Roasted Tomato & Eggplant Soup
This soup is a high-octane summer dish.
Those of you who own grills are probably going to be happier because the heat would dissipate outdoors. Those of you who will be forced to use a broiler are probably not going to be happy campers but it's summer so you takes your amazing veggie dishes where you get them.
The dish doesn't take a lot of work and the results are wildly out of proportion to the simplicity. (Maestro Maillard strikes again!)
Roasted Tomato & Eggplant Soup
2 large eggplants
6-8 garlic cloves
4-6 ripe summer tomatoes
1 large onion
1 sprig rosemary
4 cups broth
olive oil
salt
black pepper
1 tsp coriander seeds (ground fine)
2 oz goat cheese (or feta)
Recipe
Halve the eggplant along its length. Halve the onion. Peel the garlic cloves but leave them whole. Halve the tomatoes horizontally.
In a large pan, place all of the above with the cut surfaces facing upwards towards the broiler, and broil them for about 7 minutes. The CC had to do this in batches (eggplants, onions, garlic in the first; tomatoes in the second.)
If you grill them, the cut surfaces should be facing downwards (DUH!)
Cut up the grilled onion into chunks. Don't work too hard. It will not matter.
In a large pot, sautée the onions with some olive oil. Chop up the eggplants and garlic, and fry for about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes, broth, ground coriander, salt and black pepper, and let simmer for about 20-25 minutes.
Purée the mixture.
Top with the goat cheese right before serving.
Those of you who own grills are probably going to be happier because the heat would dissipate outdoors. Those of you who will be forced to use a broiler are probably not going to be happy campers but it's summer so you takes your amazing veggie dishes where you get them.
The dish doesn't take a lot of work and the results are wildly out of proportion to the simplicity. (Maestro Maillard strikes again!)
Roasted Tomato & Eggplant Soup
2 large eggplants
6-8 garlic cloves
4-6 ripe summer tomatoes
1 large onion
1 sprig rosemary
4 cups broth
olive oil
salt
black pepper
1 tsp coriander seeds (ground fine)
2 oz goat cheese (or feta)
Recipe
Halve the eggplant along its length. Halve the onion. Peel the garlic cloves but leave them whole. Halve the tomatoes horizontally.
In a large pan, place all of the above with the cut surfaces facing upwards towards the broiler, and broil them for about 7 minutes. The CC had to do this in batches (eggplants, onions, garlic in the first; tomatoes in the second.)
If you grill them, the cut surfaces should be facing downwards (DUH!)
Cut up the grilled onion into chunks. Don't work too hard. It will not matter.
In a large pot, sautée the onions with some olive oil. Chop up the eggplants and garlic, and fry for about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes, broth, ground coriander, salt and black pepper, and let simmer for about 20-25 minutes.
Purée the mixture.
Top with the goat cheese right before serving.
Sunday, September 2, 2012
The Sufferings of Summer
The CC went to the farmers' market this weekend, and then his friend's mother gave him a "small" helping of the vegetables from her garden. Her version of "small" is enough to feed a small city!
The CC's kitchen overfloweth.
The CC's kitchen overfloweth.
Saturday, September 1, 2012
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