Saturday, August 19, 2006

A Haitian Meal (Part 4)

Gluttonous, and happy, the CC and his friends sit.

The house smells like tomatoes.

The CC is deliriously happy, and is behaving like the average 7-year old (and the friends are too drunk to care!)

Thank goodness for stone walls, floors, and ceilings!

A Haitian Meal (Part 3)

RICE & RED BEANS

Deceptively simple, and yet utterly beguiling!

Ingredients

2 cups red kidney beans

2 cloves garlic (minced)
4 large shallots (diced)
1 large onion (finely diced)
8 cloves
8 whole peppercorns

4 cups long grained rice (the CC used basmati)

2 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves
salt to taste

Recipe

Soak the beans overnight (or at least 8 hours.)

Pressure cook them with salt till tender but not soft. (This is a tricky assignment!)

Heat the oil, and fry the onions and shallots till soft. Add the garlic, and fry till golden. Add the cloves and peppercorns, and fry till they "plump" slightly.

Add the rice, and fry for roughly a minute. Add the beans, thyme, and salt, and roughly 6 cups of water. Bring to a simmer, and let it cook until the rice is done. (roughly 10 minutes. You may need to add a little bit more water.)

A Haitian Meal (Part 2)

LAMBI

Ingredients

1 lb squid (cut into rings)
Juice of 13 limes
2 habañeros (chopped coarsely)

4 lbs tomatoes (quartered)
1 tbsp tomato paste (homemade, but substitute commercial you wimps!)

1 large red onion (cut into semi-rounds)
2 cloves garlic (minced)
2 small green bell peppers (cut into strips)
2 small red bell peppers (cut into strips)

1 tbsp olive oil
salt and black pepper

Recipe

The recipe really goes in three stages: marination, preparing the tomato puree, and cooking the stuff.

Marinade the lime with the squid and habañeros for at least 4 hours.

Prepare a pot of boiling water. Dunk the tomatoes for 4 minutes or so. Pass them through a fine food mill, and collect the puree. (A deceptively large amount of work is hidden in this rather innocent description.)

WARNING: If you use heirloom tomatoes like I did, they have seeds that passed through the finest grade of my food mill. I had to pass it through a sieve lined with cheese cloth again!

Heat the olive oil, and fry the onions until limp, and translucent, and the garlic, and saute until it turns light golden.

Add the tomato paste, and fry for about a minute. Add the puree, and half of the both of the bell peppers, salt and pepper to taste, and turn the heat as low as possible.

At this point experienced readers should know what to do.

Skim, baby, skim.

Add the rest of the bell peppers, and turn off the heat, and take the pot off the hot stove.

Dump the squid, and a bit of the lime (but not the habañeros) in there.

The last instruction may seem a tad mysterious but it isn't. One of the culinary crimes that this country commits is "overcooking the squid". Squid should not be rubbery! You are dumping it into a hot puree, it will cook by itself. Of course, if you cook with different seafood, the instructions will change.

The idea behind adding half the bell peppers later is to create two textures, one slightly crunchy, and one more "soggy".

Culinary Disasters (a clarification for posterity)

The CC in one fell swoop will raise the quality of your Indian cooking to a new level.

In an Indian cookbook, when they say lemon, they actually mean lime.

The CC would know.

This is a linguistic disaster turned into the Hindenburg of culinary disasters!

A Haitian Meal (Part 1)

A friend of mine has been begging me to write about this forever, but alas destiny intervened, and those that know the CC know that when destiny calls, the CC calls destiny back, and screws destiny to the wall.

However, that is tedious and time consuming.

But summer is here, and so are the good tomatoes. Since this recipe is tomato-heavy, the CC wandered down to the Farmer's Market to get some heirloom tomatoes. Once again, the guy berated me, "You weren't here last week. You expect me to sell these heirloom tomatoes to these proles?"

The recipe is somewhat time consuming but obviously worth it. If you think it's not worth it, we'll settle it like gentlemen, "Chocolate soufflés at ten paces."

I first had this meal at a Haitian restaurant. I desperately wanted to reproduce it so I consulted my two Haitian cookbooks.

They agree on the fundamentals, but differ slightly on the details.

Two things stand out:

[1] Haitian food is heavily influenced by French cooking. Not a big surprise there. The same themes stand out : skimming, rouille, etc.

[2] However, they adapted it to native fish, vegetables, etc. Shouldn't be a big surprise either.

I chatted with the woman who runs the restaurant, and she said while it was traditionally made with conch, it's really adaptable to any kind of seafood, and once you see the recipe, you will see why.

I made it with squid although I plan to make it with conch now that she told me where in New York I can find it.

Sunday, August 6, 2006

Tomatoes

Well, summer is here, and so are the good heirloom tomatoes.

The CC wandered down to the farmer's market yesterday morning. Had a chat with the farmer with the good tomatoes who complained that I buy nothing from him but tomatoes (simply not true, he has awesome fresh herbs.)

Well, he's my age, and he's known me for five seasons so in a spirit of exuberant comradery, he yelled out to his siblings and co-workers, and most of New York, "Give this man whatever he wants! He's the only one who knows good tomatoes."

The yuppies on the Upper West Side were surprised, and the CC blushed a deep red.

However, it was supremely gratifying.

I bought ten pounds of tomatoes (yes, you heard that right!), and dinner consisted of tomato soup, a baguette, and a bottle of wine.

Two kinds of food enthusiasts

There are two kinds of "foodies".

The first are the ones who worship at the altar of the Michelin three-star -- white tablecloths, "fine" cuisine (*), and "service".

The second prefer substance over style, and hence, authenticity over presentation. They'll take rickety plastic tables, and naked hanging bulbs if the food kicks ass.

The CC clearly belongs to the latter school (although he will be the first to admit that he has learnt a lot from the former.)

Consider this the first salvo in the "food wars".

(*) You can always disguise crap cuisine with truffles! (And the sad truth about New York is that most "top" chefs do. Sad, really! Truly sad.)

Calamari

A.K.A. "squid", a.k.a. creepy-crawly stuff in the American imagination.

The food critic for Vogue, Jeffrey Steingarten invented what he called the "Calamari Index", as in, how easy is it to get "fried calamari" in a typical American restaurant?

It was obviously tongue-in-cheek, but has turned out to be remarkably prescient.

There's scarcely a bar/pub on either coast (and a lot of in-between) that doesn't feature "fried calamari" on the menu. Note the change of name from "squid" to the much fancier Italian -- "calamari".

Anyway, I highly recommend both of Steingarten's books : The Man Who Ate Everything, and It Must've Been Something I Ate.

For the record, the CC is not getting any money off the links above, and the CC's friends will NOT be getting those books for their respective birthdays/Christmas.

For the first time, ladies and gentlemen (you know who you are!), it's time to prove your dedication to the culinary arts.

A.K.A., pony up the dough, bitches!

Pasta nero

A.K.A. "black" pasta. It's made with squid ink.

It may not sound like much but it's utterly delicious, and served topped with squid in a tomato sauce, the dish is better than sex. (Well, not quite, but you get the idea.)

Anyway, a few months ago the CC was dining at one of the local Italian restaurants on the Upper West Side, and was shocked to see that that the above mentioned dish had disappeared from their menu.

The CC told the waiter, "Why would you do something that stupid?", at which point the waiter ran back to the kitchen, came back, and informed the CC that the chef would be happy to make the above dish for the CC.

The chef delivered, and the CC was happy.

(NOTE: Contrary to popular opinion, I'm actually easy to please. I just have high standards.)

Why the post now?

The CC is happy to report that the chef has seen the error of his ways, and as of last night, features, not one, not two, but THREE dishes with "pasta nero".

Enough said!

Monday, July 31, 2006

Cracked Eggs

In the universe of absurd ideas, we have a new entry. The BBC reports on how Hi-tech ink perfects egg boiling.

Presumably, people can't boil eggs. So they need a hi-tech ink embossed on those eggs which will progressively spell out, "Soft", "Medium", and "Hard"-boiled.



How fucking hard can it be to pop an egg into boiling water, and time it?

Saturday, July 22, 2006

Niederegger

They make the best marzipan.

Fairway just started carrying it at a reasonable price. I'm a happy camper.

Eye Candy

I've been informed that Mexican slang for the above is un taco de ojo.

As in tacos made with meat from the eyes of a cow.

Nifty, eh?

Saturday, July 15, 2006

Tandoori Chicken

The CC is sick of being asked for this recipe, and since I'm making it for a grilling event tomorrow, in the spirit of summer, I'm just going to document it once and for all.

The "magic" of the recipe is in the double marinade. You really can't speed up this process. It has to marinate two nights.

Also, for the "germ-phobes", the recipe was designed to work in a hot climate without any refrigerators. I wanna see what can grow in this absurd level of acidity.

For the record, I'm not going to use that vile food coloring that makes this chicken "pink". This is the real deal. Enjoy!

Marinade 1

8-10 tbsp lime juice or vinegar
1 tbsp red chilli powder (the "Indian" one)
1 tbsp salt.

Marinade 2

yogurt (the sour, greek, strained one not the crap you get!)

1-2 inches of ginger (peeled)
4-6 cloves garlic
5 green chillies (the "Indian" ones. Use serranos as a substitute.)
cilantro

2 tsp cloves
2 bay leaves
4-8 green cardamoms
1 tsp mace
1 tsp nutmeg
2 tsp black peppercorns
2 tsp caraway seeds
2 tbsp salt

Recipe

Mix the first marinade. Rub all over the chickens. Leave overnight.

For the second marinade, grind all of "group 3" in a coffee grinder, grind all of "group 2" in a blender, and mix all three together. You should get greenish-white glop with black flecks from all the spices.

Take each piece of chicken from the first marinade, coat them all over with the yogurt marinade. Pour the rest of the stuff over the chickens, and marinate overnight. (The first marinade gets discarded. Yes, this is correct!)

Grill. Keep basting it with the marinade. (It's not the same as a "tandoor" but it's damn close.)

For the eternally harangued-by-their-job-I-have-no-time-to-cook, the bare minimum is 4 hours for the first, and 8 hours for the second (but don't expect it to taste as good as the real deal.)

Friday, July 7, 2006

Corn Chowder

After a short work week, the CC had a hankering for some corn chowder. But it's too hot here in New York to have a heavy meal.

What follows below is not a "true" chowder (no bacon or cream), but it's so unbelievably good that the CC rushed to blog it.

Ingredients

4 leeks (diced coarsely)
12 corn cobs (shucked, kernels removed -- keep 3 cobs, cut in half)
2 yellow bell peppers (diced)
1 potato (diced)
1 bunch parsley
broth (or water)
1 tsp caraway seeds
1 tsp celery seeds
olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

Recipe

Fry the leeks until they are soft. Add in the caraway seeds, celery seeds, and black pepper, and fry for 30 seconds or so. Toss in the bell peppers and the potato, and fry for 2 minutes or so. Add the corn cobs, and 4/5th of the corn kernels, and the broth.

Bring to a boil. Skim. Turn down the heat, and simmer for 20 minutes.

Blend the entire mixture with the parsley in a blender. Add it back to the pot, throw in the rest of the corn, and simmer for another 15 minutes.

Serve with crusty bread.

Saturday, June 24, 2006

Hiking and Food (part 3b)

The preceding farfalle was followed up by a mushroom risotto. This is the "easy" version (since we're in hiking mode.)

At a future date, the CC will publish a full version (in which you make your own mushroom broth.)

It goes without saying that there's just no comparison.



"Simple" Mushroom Risotto

Ingredients

3 shallots (diced real fine)
2-3 leeks (diced fine, mostly white parts but some green too.)
a variety of mushrooms (button,crimini,shiitake diced -- they will shrink!)
2-3 cups arborio rice
3-4 cups broth (read below if you use commercial broth!)
butter
olive oil
salt and pepper

Recipe

Heat one burner, and keep the broth on a simmer. (I skimmed the broth, you may want to do the same.)

Heat the olive oil, and fry the shallots and the leeks. When they are light golden, add the rice, and stir so that the arborio is liberally coated with olive oil. Fry for 30 seconds or so.

Add the mushrooms, and fry for 3 minutes or so. The mushrooms should give off copious amounts of liquid. Add the salt and pepper.

Now comes the hard part.

Add in a ladeleful of the hot broth, and stir. As the rice absorbs the liquid, keep adding more ladlefuls, and stirring.

The rice should be solid (and lightly sticky) but not "hard".

Serve warm.


In retrospect, even while going hiking, I should've bought some "dried porcinis" (the reconstituted broth would be divine!), and some "parmigiano reggiano".

The CC wishes to apologize to his friends, and hangs his head in shame.

Hiking and food (part 3a)

The next day was a bit of a hiking bust. It poured continuously, and in any case we were in no mood to do a strenuous hike after the previous day's.

However, on the bright side, we had some amazing food.

This recipe is utterly simple but its simplicity belies its brilliance.



Farfalle con piselli

Ingredients

6 shallots (cut into rounds)
1 1/2 packages frozen peas (frozen will do since texture is not important)
lots of basil
salt and pepper

Recipe

Heat up some olive oil, and fry the shallots till they "sweat". Add in a package of the peas, and some water, salt and pepper. Let the peas cook for 5-6 minutes.

Pluck the basil leaves, and dump the above mixture with the leaves into a blender. Blend till smooth, and dump the mixture back into the pot. Add the rest of the peas, and cook for 5-6 minutes. Do not overcook!

Serve the sauce over farfalle, with plenty of black pepper.



A word to the wise.

One of my friends (who shall remain unnamed), in her infinite brilliance (yes! I know I've revealed the gender), decided to skip two out of the three ingredients (shallots and basil.) The consequences of the afore-mentioned are left as an easy exercise to the reader.

Sunday, June 4, 2006

Hiking and food (part 2)

The next day, the CC had the unfortunate responsibility of explaining the non-negotiable rules of hiking to a bunch of supposedly experienced hikers.

Folks got mauled.

Then, the CC got mauled.

After that, the food got mauled.

Sometimes being right means that you have to eat burnt veggie burgers but far better to eat burnt burgers, and espouse some truths than spend your vacation in the morgue.

For the record, if you "broil" something, generally 2 minutes is more than sufficient.

Hiking and pasta

Next up on the California trail was Yosemite where we carried our food and our water.

The CC got there first (predictably!), and was charged with cooking dinner.

Ingredients

2-3 tbsp olive oil
2 large onions, halved, and cut into ringlets
3 zucchini squash (cut into rounds)
12-20 pattypan squash (cut into quarters)
mint, and basil (cut coarsely by hand)
salt to taste
pepper (lots!)

Recipe

Heat the olive oil, and fry the onions until they are soft and limp. Toss in the squash, and some water, salt to taste, lots and lots of black pepper, cover and let the squash cook. Add the mint and basil at the end. Turn off the heat.

Serve over farfalle (bowtie pasta for the Americans.)

Saturday, June 3, 2006

Long beans

The CC figured that he should write about the long beans, given how much I like them.

For the Indians in the audience, we're talking about chaudi (and for the non-Indians, you don't really know how to pronounce that "d" so don't even bother!)

The CC just wanted to say that he misses them but how the hell can the CC miss them when they are so easily available in NYC?

OK, he just crave them.

Meyer-Lemon Granita recipe

Ingredients

20 Meyer-lemons
8 tbsp sugar (this is approximate, read below.)
infinite patience (traditionally in short supply!)

Method

Squeeze the lemons, and put the juice through a fine sieve (you only want the liquid.) Add the sugar one tbsp at a time, and stir until it dissolves. You want to end up with a solution that's still quite tart but has a sweet-sour taste (trust me, this works well in the end even as a "dessert" -- the first time the CC made a granita, it was too sweet.)

Now comes the hard part. Put the stuff in a large bowl, and place it in the freezer uncovered. As it starts freezing, stir it up.

Initially, you can wait upto 2-3 hours in summer. After that, you'll need to do it every hour, then every half-hour, then every 15 minutes, until you end up with ice-crystals that are "quite dry" (like powdered snowflakes.)

Scoop and serve in martini glasses. The flavor crystals explode in your mouth.

The Italians may not know how to form a government, but they know how to eat well.