Wednesday, October 31, 2007

Langoustines

Also known as the Norway Lobster. A denizen of colder waters which you may have encountered under the Italian name of scampi.

It's quite delicious grilled, and in the spirit of Halloween, be sure to eat the salty succulent meat near the head and the eyes.

Don't be un Americain, as they say in France.

Monday, October 29, 2007

Food Deconstruction

Well, it's trendy and all but is it any good?

The CC having consumed a "deconstructed burger" at a cocktail party (mini-bun, meat, tomato, onion on a toothpick like a mini-kebab) and a "deconstructed gazpacho" at a fancy restaurant in San Francisco can say, "Yes, provided it's well thought out."

In fact, the CC was so impressed by the above "deconstructed gazpacho" that he spent a whole day making a "traditional gazpacho" and the "deconstructed version" side by side.

Just for the record, the scary quotes ("") are de rigeur. There's a difference between deconstruction, deconstruction, and "deconstruction" (insert literary theory joke here; or is that "literary theory"?)

Which brings us to a food riddle:

Q: Why is Derrida like a piece of wilted lettuce?

A: Because they are both wrinkled and rank-led.

(Get it?)

Anyway, back to the gazpachos. They were made a few months ago but in the spirit of exuberant discovery, and in the fading memory of a vanished summer, the CC will post the recipes soon.

Thursday, October 25, 2007

Nero di seppia


Nectar of the gods assuming they like an iodized salty flavor. Rich, intense, over-the-top, and unforgettable.

For the record, this is not squid ink. Seppia is cuttlefish; squid would be calamari. They are quite different.

The CC has just sourced this after two weeks of trying in New York (which is borderline unthinkable) so there may be recipes forthcoming.

Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Strange Succulent Snacks

The CC is quite fond of these.

First up, we have tiny dried crabs in a faintly sugary glaze. You can just pop these like peanuts.

Dried Whole Crabs


Next up is dried shredded squid. Wonderfully chewy like jerky except it's tastier. Great with a beer or three.

Dried Squid

Monday, October 22, 2007

Sicilian Pasta with Broccoli

This is a sensational recipe marrying classic Italian technique with North African influences. A complete hit especially after a hard day's work.

In case you're wondering, the anchovies are critical.

A couple of points of note:

You should unambiguously see the medieval influence by the presence of the raisins. You can also see the influence of the New World via the tomato. Of course, the North African influence should be obvious.

Ingredients

1 large onion (finely diced)
4 anchovies
1/4 cup raisins
1/8 cup pine nuts
1 large broccoli (cut into small florets)
2 tbsp tomato paste (homemade)
1 large pinch saffron
salt and pepper
olive oil

shaved pecorino (or parmigiano-reggiano)

1 cup penne.

Recipe

Fry the onion at a medium-low heat until soffrito. Add the anchovies and fry for about another minute. Add the tomato paste, fry for a bit, and add some water along with the raisins and pine nuts, salt and pepper to taste.

Add the broccoli and cook until slightly under done. The saffron should go in towards the very end otherwise its delicate fragrance will disappear.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta slightly under al dente, and add it to the sauce. Heat, and serve.

The pasta should be thoroughly covered with the delicate saffron sauce, and will be tinged golden because of it.

Shave a modest amount of cheese over each serving. The dish has a really delicate taste where all flavors are key partners so be careful not to overwhelm.

Harmony is key!

Friday, October 19, 2007

French Classical Sauces

Escoffier may list hundreds but there are only 23.

W
O
W/S
O/W
S/W
(O + S)/W
(W/S)/W
O + (W/S)
(G + O)/W
(G + O + S)/W
(O + (W/S))/W
(S + (W/S))/W
((W + S)/O)/S
(O + S + (W/S))/W
((W/S) + (S ⊂ W))/W
(O + (W/S)/W)/S
((O + (W/S))/W)/S
(O/W) + ((G + O)/W)
(O + (W/S) + (S ⊂ W))/W
(S + (W/S) + (S ⊂ W))/W
(((W/S) + (S ⊂ W))/W)/S
(O + S +(W/S) + (S ⊂ W))/W
(O + S +((G + O)/W))/W


Key (letters): O = oil, W = water, G = gas, S = solid
Key (operators): + = mixed into, / = dispersed into, ⊂ = included into

For example, both broth or vinegar are just W, and butter is (W/O)/S.

Note that in a given formula, the multiple W's and S'es may be different.

This is the work of the magnificent Hervé This, co-inventor of the field of molecular gastronomy.

See if you can come up with examples of the above sauces, fellow gastronauts!

Garnish

When the CC looks back on Wall St. in his anec-dotage, he will be pondering one eternal question:

Who, in their right mind, would garnish a bowl of cut fruits with parsley?

Tuesday, October 16, 2007

Comparing Parsi Cookbooks

Well, a few months ago, the CC was cooking traditional dhan-saak (recipe to follow) for some friends, and had the opportunity to actually sit down and compare all his Parsi cookbooks.

There were three in all.

A tiny book by Bapsi Nariman, a recent one by Niloufer Ichaporia-King, and two books published in India by Katy Dalal.

Right off the bat, the CC noticed that Katy Dalal's books are written for other Parsis so you can only understand it if you already know how to do it, or have eaten it before. There is no hope for a beginner here.

Niloufer Ichaporia's is excellent but she has lived in the US way too long starting at a time where things were not easily available. Now that they are trivially available everywhere, she has not actually gone back to the originals. The recipes are top-notch, and the explanation of technique is impeccable but why substitute when you don't need to?

For example, she excludes vaal from the dhan-saak recipe. The CC considers it utterly crucial. While the CC agrees that the soul of dhan-saak comes from the masoor, the sweetness comes from the vaal so to get that effect, she adds sweet potatoes but starch has very little place in a meat-lentil dish.

No matter what she thinks, balsamic vinegar is not a substitute for tamarind + sugar. It just isn't. No one would ever confuse the different tartnesses of lemon, lime, vinegar, and tamarind. They are just too different. And fine vinegars taste nothing like the much cruder coconut vinegar necessary for certain Indian dishes.

She only states the importance of masoor in a traditional Parsi household in a throwaway sentence or two on page 302. If you were someone who already knew what masoor was, you'd probably just miss the sentence. The CC only found it because he went looking for that sentence, and that particular cultural interpretation.

The other two state it upfront.

Many Parsis will simply not eat a meal without a side helping of masoor, and they have tons of creative ways of cooking it to avoid boredom. Virtually every culture or sub-culture has a signature dish, and it behooves a good cook to know cultural details of this nature.

Bapsi Nariman, on the other hand, gives the recipe straight. No messing around, very minimalist but he takes other short-cuts which are not right. For example, it is important that the meat and vegetables be cooked separately, and then combined. The CC knows why his short-cut would work in India but it won't work here because you have fattier meat.

Oddly enough, Ichaporia's masalas are much more detailed and authentic, and "correct". However, she makes them in industrial sizes. Anything that starts with 1/4 cup of cumin is doomed. You'll never use that up in this lifetime.

But they are absolutely amazing and delicious!

The CC also hopes her readers know that if you toast cloves, cumin and poppy seeds, you need three rounds of roasting because if you toss them all in, the poppy seeds will burn. (It's a simple size thing.)

So what's a beginner to do?

Use Ichaporia but cross-check with Nariman. Adopt her techniques for the spices but check his basic ingredients first.

Saturday, October 13, 2007

Vaal


Also known as "split lablab beans". They have a unique sweetish taste, and silky texture.

The CC was known to compose odes to this bean at a very young age.

Gingered Cauliflower

One of the CC's favorite "home" recipes. Particularly good when served with parathas.

Ingredients

1 large cauliflower (cut into florets)
5-6" ginger
4-5 Thai green chillies (substitute with serranos.)
1 tbsp roasted cumin (ground into a powder)
1 tsp red chilli powder
1 tbsp garam masala
oil
salt to taste

Recipe

Grind the ginger and green chillies into a paste. (This is where food processors rock! Just try and use the minimum amount of water to get a paste with some texture.)

Fry some oil. Fry the ginger paste. Toss in the spices, and the cauliflower. Sautée for a while. Add some water, and let it cook until done.

Sometimes the CC adds fresh beans.

Oddly enough, this is one of the few cauliflower recipes that does not work with broccoli.

Orange Cauliflower


Bounty from the Farmers' Market!

Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Professionals v/s Non-professionals

A brief throwaway comment by a friend sent the CC into a reverie about the distinction between the two. The CC was talking about a gazpacho (forthcoming entry) and the CC was explaining the pains it took to get there.

It was pointed out to the CC that commercial kitchens couldn't possibly do that.

Well, they can, and they can't.

If they charge enough, they can. If not, they can't.

Commercial kitchens also have all these little Jamies running around all thinking they are going to be the next celebrity chef but they're just all earning a pittance, and truly a pittance it is.

No home chef can possibly have the luxury of the help, and symmetrically, no commercial kitchen has the luxury of detail.

The CC would love to have industrial-strength stoves ("BTU's, baby!!!") and an army of little minions but reality is neither going to be forthcoming nor obliging.

On the other hand, no commercial kitchen can afford to take the kind of care and detail that even an average home cook lavishes on their meals. They are ultimately a commercial enterprise, and have to get a return on their investment.

So why does their food "appear" better? They do have an army of minions, and they do have an army of tricks but they may or may not have the wealth of detail (not unless you pay steeply for it, and even then it's a bit of an illusion.)

So what's the CC's point?

The two enterprises are truly different, and it seldom behooves anyone to compare them.

Tuesday, September 18, 2007

Kitchen Instruments (The List)

Promised before the CC went on vacation, here are:

"The Indefensibles"

Prep work

French chef's knife
trimmer
kitchen peeler
mortar & pestle
kitchen scissors

Pots & pans

stock pot
any ol' pot
skillet

Miscellaneous

coffee grinder
food mill
food processor
blender
measuring cup

Pre-serving instruments

cheese grater

Everything else is icing on the cake; there are tons of items that would be "useful" but they are not "necessary".

Monday, September 17, 2007

Dips, Raitas, and other assorted goodies

Virtually every country that consumes milk has some variations on this theme.

The CC had a lot of leftover yogurt (don't ask!), and some assorted stuff (cucumbers, carrots, mint, curry leaves) in his refrigerator. His thoughts turned to how to consume most of it efficiently, but also leave it in a form that could be easily stored for later consumption.

Inspiration struck, and out came the thought of making a bunch of yogurt-based foods.

There are more recipes here than humans. Writing a book on these would be the ultimate waste of time. Who'd read all these basic variations on the same theme?

Tzatziki

Ingredients

1 english cucumber (grated)
2 cloves garlic (minced fine)
mint (chopped into ribbons)
strained yogurt
salt and pepper

Recipe

Mix everything, and let it sit for an hour.

South-Indian Carrot Raita

Ingredients

carrots (grated)
1 tsp mustard seeds
1 tbsp urad
5-7 curry leaves
strained yogurt
salt

Recipe

Heat a tiny amount of oil in a pan. Toss in the mustard seeds. When they splutter, toss in the urad. When they turn light brown, toss in the curry leaves. Add the carrots and sautee for about a minute. Let it cool.

Mix everything together, and let it sit for at least an hour.

Sunday, September 16, 2007

HaT3rZ!!!

There's always going to be things you hate.

You can't like everything, and if as they say, you are what you like, then you are just as much as what you hate.

Or as Goethe put it more poetically, "I hate everything Egyptian."

Please note that these are not things that you dislike. These are things that you hate. The difference lies in the intensity of the feeling.

So here are the list of the CC's hates:

  • Fast-food restaurants
    "Kill me! Kill me now."
  • Rice pudding (and variants)
    Vile texture. Utter failure as rice; utter failure as dessert.
  • Most Indian sweets
    Too sweet. Failure at a balance in taste. Why not just eat sugar?
  • Soft-boiled eggs
    Too yolk-y early in the morning. Worse after a bender. Would like to like them but can't.
  • Brownie-Coffee combo
    Bad enough being "wired". This is like being "wired", and wanting to throw up. Can't imagine how bad it'd be after a bender. Wouldn't care to try.
    The CC is sure there are more but this will do for a start.

    Audience participation welcomed!
  • Saturday, September 15, 2007

    Dated-ness

    Well, recently the CC has been making some of the older recipes on this blog (pure coincidence) and he notices that the recipes are kinda dated.

    It's not really dated in the traditional sense ("ooooh! that is soooo 1997".)

    While the ingredients are exactly what they should be, the description of the execution is not quite what the CC does in reality. He takes extra steps, or even skips some which he realizes are not that important. It's really a deepening of technique not a dating of the blog.

    For the record, the two most important things the CC seems to have learnt in the last five years is how to "fry vegetables" (look for an upcoming post), in regards to all kinds of dishes; and the importance of texture in a dish. Controlling texture is very very important even for something that is eaten daily (a little harder to post about.)

    Wednesday, September 12, 2007

    Saffron Roasted Potatoes

    The CC never thought that anything could give properly made french fries a run for their money.

    If you find new potatoes, by all means use them!

    Ingredients

    new potatoes halved, or roasting potatoes cut into large cubes
    tomatoes
    saffron
    salt & pepper

    Recipe

    First you need to dunk the tomatoes in boiling water, and pass them through a food mill to collect the pulp.

    Heat some olive oil, and when hot, toss in the tomato pulp. Add salt, and lots of pepper. Let it reduce at a very low heat for at least 30-35 mins. If it thickens too much, you can always add water later.

    Towards the end, toss is two large pinches of saffron, stir it, and take it off the heat.

    Lay the potatoes in a baking sheet, pour the liquid all over it, and bake at 400°F for 30-40 minutes until the potatoes are lightly browned.

    Monday, September 10, 2007

    Roasted Brussel Sprouts with Walnuts

    Well, the CC was never fond of brussel sprouts until he actually figured out how to make them well.

    Well, the chief problem with cooking anything of the brassica family is that overcooking will make it smell bad, taste like nothing, and flabby to boot.

    No taste; bad smell; no texture. How much worse can it get?

    Moral? Don't overcook.

    There's a simple way to handle it. Boil some water, and when it has come to a boil, dunk them, and cook for no more than 3 mins. Cool; cut each in half; then roast them.

    Verdict? Very gobblicious.

    Ingredients

    1 lb brussel sprouts
    balsamic vinegar (we used a fig vinegar)
    walnuts (coarsely broken/chopped)
    salt and pepper

    Recipe

    Boil the brussel sprouts as above. Cut them in half.

    Lay them in a baking pan. Sprinkle with olive oil, salt and pepper. (Alternately, you can mix them with the above in a bowl, and then lay them out.)

    Sprinkle with balsamic vinegar, and chopped walnuts.

    Roast at 425°F for about 20 mins. Check if they have caramelized. If not, roast for another 5 mins or so.

    Blistered Shishito Peppers

    This is one of those concepts that almost every culture has a version of.

    The idea is to serve blistered peppers, lightly pan-fried, and sprinkled with coarse sea salt. If you have very mild peppers, you don't need to control the heat. Otherwise you need to slit it, and scoop away part of the inside to control it.

    Naturally, in some masochistic cultures (there's one in India), they amp up the heat by using the hottest peppers, but we need not go there.

    The CC encountered some lovely shishito peppers (quite mild, with a modest heat) at the farmers market. You can also use cubanelles, or even bell peppers (provided you peel them first.)

    This is one of those "Greedy Gus" recipes. No matter how much the CC makes, there's never any left so plan accordingly.


    Ingredients

    shishito peppers (count at least 7-8 per guest)
    olive oil
    coarse sea salt.

    Recipe

    First, you need to individually roast the peppers over an open gas flame till they are blistered and charred in spots (This is the point of the recipe at which you can store them for a few hours. Just put a paper napkin to absorb the moisture so that they don't get soggy.)

    Just before you serve, sautee them in a little olive oil.

    Serve them hot in a serving dish, and sprinkle coarse sea salt quite generously all over them.

    Your guests will gobble them up!

    Friday, September 7, 2007

    Popcorn

    Well, you may or may not have been reading about the ridiculous "microwave popcorn", and the chemical diacetyl causing cancer, etc, whoop-dee-doodle-doo, blahtee-bloody-blah.

    Popcorn making is trivial. In fact, the CC is a big fan so he makes it often, and no funny chemicals need apply.

    Let not these complete fools dissuade you. Follow these instructions, and you will have glorious golden popcorn every single time (unless you use red or blue corn.)

    Ingredients

    popcorn kernels
    olive oil (or any vegetable oil)
    salt

    Recipe

    First, note the ingredient list. Do you see anything funny?

    No? Then the "microwave popcorn"-people are just nebbishes and clueless retards.

    Pour a smallish amount of oil into a pot, something sturdy. Turn the heat to medium-low, definitely less than medium high, and toss in three to four corn kernels, and cover the pan (you need a sturdy cover too.)

    Wait for the first pop or two. (this is the "hard" part.)

    When they do, and the CC assures you, they will eventually, open the pan, toss in the salt, and the rest of the kernels, cover the pan again, lift the pan with gloves, shake horizontally vigorously (to cover the kernels in the oil and salt), put them back on the stove, and wait.

    Wait. Wait. Wait.

    Do not turn the heat up. Just wait.

    When they "finish" popping, pour them into a bowl, and enjoy. You may need to add extra salt or seasoning to taste.